If you pay any attention to the world and cult following of the Bon Appetit Test Kitchen, you know that there's been some recent controversy over the way Conde Nast as a whole, and Bon Appetit specifically, function as companies. Whiteness has been at the center of Bon Appetit for a long time, and the food industry as a whole and the bold and beyond-talented Sohla El-Waylly called out what she saw and experienced, and it has caused some serious changes to happen in only a few days. I've gone ahead and included some links in this paragraph in case you want to learn more about what's been happening. I do not want to get into much of it here since these are promised to be short reads.
In an effort to do a better job myself of highlighting the varied people who inspire my cooking, I wanted to make sure I paid tribute to Sohla. She has inspired me as a cook and as a woman.
I took a hiatus from posting the last week or so to stay entrenched and focused on what's been happening in the world. In the wake of the movement sparked largely from outrage over George Floyd's death, but innumerable tales of others just like it, the spirit of morality seems to have been reignited in many and that's a beautiful thing. Sohla and her spirit are indicative of the waves of changes happening across systems that uphold privilege, and it's wonderful. I think paying tribute to Sohla's hard work and perseverance that has happened due to the conversations happening around these issues are important and this was the best way I knew how! So, here's the recipe for Sohla's Zucchini-Lentil Fritters!
Lemony Yogurt
¾ cup whole-milk yogurt
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. sugar
Kosher salt
Fritters
1 cup red lentils (masoor dal)
1 medium zucchini (about 5 oz.)
½ medium onion, thinly sliced
1¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
½ tsp. Kashmiri chile powder or ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
¼ tsp. ground turmeric
1 cup parsley leaves with tender stems
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 cup ghee or neutral vegetable oil
FIRST: Whisk yogurt, lemon juice, and sugar in a small bowl to combine. Season with salt and whisk again to combine. Meanwhile, rinse and soak the lentils for at least 1 hour, up to 12. Remember that the longer you soak the lentils, the more plump and easier to blend they become.
THEN: Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut crosswise, making three pieces that are roughly 2" long. Cut each piece lengthwise into ¼"-thick planks. Stack a few planks and slice lengthwise into ¼"-thick matchsticks, about the thickness of a skinny french fry. Add onion and 1 tsp. salt to colander and toss to combine. Let zucchini and onion sit until about 1 Tbsp. liquid has released and the vegetables look wilted and soft, 30 minutes–2 hours (to maximize your downtime, do this while the lentils are soaking).
THEN: Pat dry with paper towels to remove any excess moisture. The less moisture in the veggies, the less soggy your fritters will be, so be sure not to skip this step.
THEN: Drain lentils and transfer to a food processor. Add chile powder, turmeric, and ¾ tsp. salt. Pulse, scraping down sides, until purée forms. Transfer to a medium bowl and add zucchini and onion mixture, parsley, and lemon zest. Toss well with a rubber spatula to combine (it will look like too many vegetables for the lentils, but that’s just what you want).
THEN: Heat ghee in a 10" cast-iron skillet over medium-high until a small amount of batter added to the fat excitedly sizzles and sputters. Carefully drop ¼ cup batter into ghee, then flatten to a pancake with the back of a large metal spoon dipped into the hot ghee to prevent sticking. Repeat 3 times for a total of 4 fritters. Fry until deep golden brown on one side (look for the color of a well-fried falafel), about 3 minutes. Turn with a slotted spatula or large spoon and continue to fry until deep golden brown on the second side, about 3 minutes more. Transfer fritters to a wire rack set in a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Season immediately with salt. Repeat with the remaining batter (you should have 8–10 fritters).
FINALLY: Transfer fritters to a platter. Serve hot with lemony yogurt alongside. I often garnish the lemony yogurt with parsley or cilantro.
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