In the wake of the movement sparked largely from outrage over George Floyd's death, but innumerable tales of others just like it, the spirit of morality seems to have been reignited in many and that's a beautiful thing. Unfortunately, the systemic racism and the systems that uphold it are virtually unlimited in our society: from our governing bodies to education to law enforcement, and as many of us know or are seeing for the first time, the food industry is no exception.
Conglomerates like Bon Appetit, and its parent company, Conde Nast, are coming under fire for their (being generous here) seemingly(obviously)-conscious choices to keep things white-centered and "accessible," the often-used coded-language-term that really means "whiten it." Despite the current climate of the food world, I find myself drawn to recipes from Bon Appetit, a place that has taught me so much about cooking. Initially, I planned to post another Alison Roman recipe, but I felt I had to address the so-called elephant in the room: she's recently come under fire for not giving enough credit to (and/or sometimes does not even mention) the cultural influences some of her dishes (undeniable or obviously) have. I've read countless articles about Roman, the different sides to the issue, and the criticism of BA as a whole organization; I've paid close attention to the issues highlighted by BIPOC peers in the industry, but the skills I have learned from BA and the recipes I choose to use are not defined by them, their organization, or its flaws; that's something I only realized as I type this.
While Roman received (well-warranted, in my opinion) flack for not paying enough tribute to an ingredient or recipe sources, I can do things differently. I can actively choose to handle and pay tribute to the ingredients that I use and their origins. While I can't control the world and I already own her recipe books, I can control how I treat the cultures her food is inspired by.
So, here is another Alison Roman recipe.
This recipe comes from the "Snack Time" section of my favorite Alison Roman cookbook, Nothing Fancy [NOTE: This time, I've linked a book review, not the book listing]. This heat-fueled joy-ride of a feta variety is an absolute symphony for your sinuses and your palette.
Ingredients:
1/2 cup olive oil, plus more as needed
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 small-ish ripe tomatoes, or one medium ripe tomato, coarsely chopped
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp. harissa paste or 1/2 crushed red pepper flakes
1 tbsp. distilled white vinegar
8 oz. feta cheese, sliced into 1/4-inch slabs, or 1/2-inch cube
FIRST: Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, swirling the skillet occasionally, until the garlic is tender and nearly golden brown (roughly 2-3 minutes).
THEN: Add the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally until they've broken down into a thick, chunky sauce, 5-8 minutes.
THEN: Add the harissa and continue to cook until the sauce is a bit more paste-like (roughly 3-5 minutes). Remove from the heat, and then add the vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Add more olive oil until it becomes savory and spoonable.
FINALLY: Place the feta in a serving dish or bowl and pour the mixture over. Let it sit for at least 10 minutes, or up to a week in advance, refrigerated. Drizzle with more olive oil before serving.
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