If you're unfamiliar with za'atar, it's an herbal blend that's rich in flavor and adds depth to anything it seasons. It's a very common flavor in the Middle East, and according to (admittedly unreliable) sources online, that is also the area of its origin (though I suspect that is in fact the case). Anyway, if you want to learn more about this flavor, this NPR article was a nice spotlight. As someone who married a Palestinian-American man who grew up eating many of his culture's traditional foods and flavors, za'atar is a welcomed flavor whenever I can incorporate it. Thanks to this fabulous dish from world-renowned food guru Yotam Ottolenghi, I have one more recipe in my recipe box I can call upon for this flavor.
Ottolenghi calls for Gigli pasta for this recipe from his great-for-everyday-use cookbook Ottolenghi Simple. Ottolenghi stresses the importance of this particular pasta variety, though I personally have used others and loved it just the same; however, Ottolenghi says, “Gigli means ‘lilies’ in Italian, and their floral wavy edges are a great vehicle for the chickpeas and anchovies in the sauce.
Orecchiette (ears) or conchiglie (shells) are also good for scooping and work really well here, too." So, there you have it. A few recommendations for pasta variety.
Ingredients:
3 tbsp. olive oil, plus extra for serving
1/2 onion, finely chopped (roughly 3/4 cup)
2 garlic cloves, grated
2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 cup thyme leaves, finely chopped
1 lemon, 1/2 zested, 2 tbsp. juice
kosher salt and black pepper
2 cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 tsp. brown sugar
1 2/3 cups chicken stock
2oz Gigli pasta
1 3/4 baby spinach leaves
3/4 cup parsley
1 1/2 tsp. za'atar
FIRST: Put the olive oil into a large saute pan and place on high heat. Add the onion, garlic, cumin, thyme, anchovies, lemon skin, 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt and a good grind of pepper. Fry for 3-4 minutes, stirring often, until soft and golden. Reduce the heat to medium-high, then add the chickpeas and sugar, and fry for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas begin to brown and crisp up. Add the chicken stock and lemon juice, and simmer for 6 minutes, until the sauce has reduced slightly. Remove from the heat and set aside. You can make this in advance, if you like, and warm through before serving.
THEN: Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the pasta and cook for 8 minutes, or according to the packet instructions, until al dente. Drain and set aside.
FINALLY: Stir the spinach and parsley into the chickpeas: the residual heat of the sauce should cook the spinach, but if it doesn’t wilt, just warm the chickpeas gently on the stove. Transfer pasta to the chickpeas and stir to combine. Divide among four bowls and sprinkle the za’atar on top. Finish with a drizzle of oil, and serve.
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